Friday, May 25, 2007


Da path

da beach

The dudes I had I met at Polihale had pointed out a hole in the guard rail along highway 50 when we were on our way back to Lihue last weekend. They told me there was a pretty good surf spot through the hole and down a dirt path. It was pretty close to the pad I was stayin' at in Kekaha, so I went back a few days later to check it out. A short jaunt down a tropical trail brought me to a long stretch of beach and to a fence with a sign attached that read "private property." On the beach side of the fence was lava rock path that stretched out into a small bay, past that was what looked like a pretty fun wave. I scaled the lava rock and saw several people loungin' on the grass on the beach side of the fence. It was kind hard to tell from the shore if the surfers in the water were all local or if there were some haoles out in the line up as well. As I walked down the beach I checked out the surf and collected a couple dried coconuts that I was going to attempt painting. On the way back towards the trail I spotted an older haole couple sitting on the grass. I walked up to them to ask a few questions about the break. I figured they might be a little more friendly and approachable than one of the group of locals hangin' out. I was mistaken.

Actually the very tan woman was cool and greeted me with an "aloha." I asked them if they would mind if I asked them a few questions about this beach and surf spot. The woman said "sure" and even offered me some of the smoked fish she was munchin' on. The weathered lookin' old guy looked at me and said nothing. I felt the vibe but still inquired what the break was called and if it was a heavy local spot or a friendly break. The dude answer my question with a grumpy reply "It's called Infinities and this is all private property" he paused a second then grumbled "except for the beach, the beach is public." He then went on to tell me it was a locals only break. I let him know that I did not cross the property but came down the path off the highway. He said nothing more and just acted indifferent. The friendly woman asked me where I was from, when I told her Santa Cruz we chatted a bit about one of the local pros who live in S.C. I mentioned that I just moved to Kauai and that I was looking to buy a longboard. When she heard that she told me the guy with her was the man to talk to. She went on to exclaim "That's Dick Brewer." Well I know a bit of surf history and had a pretty good idea of who I had been trying to milk info from. Brewer is a surfing and board shaping legend with a long history on the islands. At one point I had even owned one of his old seventies boards. But that don't mean a thing to me if you act like a crusty sand crab when a guy is just askin' a few harmless questions and tryin' to stay out of the locals cross hairs. After finding out who I was taIkin' with I simply said "well how about that" and thanked them for their time and went on my way. I wasn't about to goo and gah over him, fluff his head or stroke his ego after the way he was actin'. Later I spoke to several other people and they informed me that all kinds of folks surf out at Infinities not just the locals. Well, I don't think I will be hittin' ol Dicky boy up for a board anytime soon. Of all the people on the beach to walk up to and try to chat with I pick Dick Brewer and friend. Go figure.

1 comment:

James said...

Chongolio...sorry bout the bad news...better off without ANY roomates if you can pull it off...Unfortunately you are living on the most expensive Island in Hawaii. :-(
Best to find out early if someone os going to sprout horns.

Hell with Dick Brewer....So much for "Aloha"....
Good luck finding a place, I'm watchin this blog for the vicarious adventure.

Email me, I'll send you a cool new Tikiyaki Orchestra track to cheer you up.